Sevan, the blue eye of the Caucasus

Lake Sevan, at nearly 2000 m above sea level, is the preferred holiday destination of Armenians. If it's good for them, it's perfect for us...

...so we thought, and off we went...

yesterday morning by taxi from Eghegnadzor. The first glimpse of lake Sevan is wonderful, absolutely wonderful. Shortly after the 2400 meter high Selim pass and some greener-than-green pastures the view opens up: a blue eye of a lake in the midst of snow covered peaks. Enough to make my Swiss soul rejoice.

The first town on the lake, Martuni, is a pleasant surprise: the remittances from the young men working in Russia permit new houses being built and generally make the town live. Very friendly people top it off. We exchange our Lada taxi for a local bus and head for the next town, Gavar.

There it seems as if the time has stopped since the fall of the Soviet Union 17 years ago. The road to Gavar, the capital town of the region, is so full of holes that we were tossed up and down in the bus. The huge main square is surrounded by the obligatory Univermag (Soviet supermarket), Gostinitsa (huge hotel block) and the Dvorets Kulturi (Culture Palace) -- all of them empty and falling to pieces, a sad sight. Only the Armenian church on the square has something of a nice look to it. A picnic and the encounter with friendly Ara who invited us to his home lighten up the experience.

After a visit to the largest field of khachkars (cross stones) in Armenia we took another local bus to the main town on the lake, also called Sevan, and its lakeside resorts. We had pictured romantic beaches, newly renovated vacation homes and hotels, couples strolling along the water hand in hand.

Well, this picture is from a different place... We found old Soviet sanatoria in a sorry state, newly built hotel complexes in the taste of the local mafia, and some shacks called domiki which are rented out to tourists in the summer. And among this, much rubbish and street dogs. The grey weather added to our disappointment.

We are looking forward to revisiting the blue eye of the Caucasus with my friend Arpine once we're back from Georgia, to correct our impression...